It didn't hurt that our friends brought along a 1970 Chateau Latour from their cellar, which was declared by chef/owner Ken Frank to be in pristine condition. (We never doubted that.) There was some good-natured quibbling about which dish showed best with the Latour, but we each sampled everything and finished sated, happy, just right. Ah. Starting with Roederer Estate Rosé didn't hurt either.
Ordering a green salad in a restaurant where every sauce is sublimely nuanced may have seemed foolish, but no - Ken and other local chefs have banded together to tend the gardens at (we hope temporarily) shuttered Copia, and the greens and other veggies they're growing make fabulous "green salads." Bravo!